Sewing a Notched Collar

Firstly, I always find the newest methods used in the fashion industry before I take on a project.  The last time I made a notched collar using these methods was about 5 years ago, so I really needed a refresher.  So I turned to threads magazine for a tutorial:

http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/24957/how-to-sew-a-notched-jacket-lapel

Here's my practice piece.  I always practice the technique before I attempt the project.  It's like measuring twice.  Good thing I did, because although I nailed the technique of a smooth, bulk free join from the collar to the lapel.  I failed in 2 major ways.  My under collar was too large so the seam line did not roll under (See pic #2) and I under stitched the front piece by mistake.

 Pic #1 Bulk free perfect join.

Pic #2 Undercollar is too large and the seam line is not rolling under.

 Pic #3 I got confused and under stitched the front side of the lapel instead of the back side.  I will not forget that mistake again.  But the corner was perfect and completely bulk free.

 Pic #4.  I'm not 100% sure but I think the collar may be a bit too short.  I'll work this out before I start my project.  It looks like I need to cut into into and spread it just a bit.

 Pic #5 Notch every match point on the collar so assembly to the jacket is perfect.

 Pic #4 Interface the collar but only up to the Seam Allowance.  This is very important for bulk free corners.

Pic #5 My inspiration.  The final jacket will have a peplum like this one when I'm finished.