Silk Charmuese Short Sleeve Button Down Top

This was my entry in the sewing bee contest on Pattern Review.  I've never entered a contest so I though it would be a fun challenge.   Plus, it pushed me to make something I normally would just purchase.

This was my entry in the sewing bee contest on Pattern Review:

Pattern Review Contest

Sewing Bee Round 1 - Fitted Blouse

Pattern or style used and how it fits the criteria:

This is a self drafted fitted blouse.  This was a big stretch for me since I generally like to make jackets and dresses and when I venture to sew a top I prefer using knit fabrics or cotton wovens.  So I went to the drafting table and 2 muslins later I have a great fitting shirt, that’s very comfortable to wear. I achieved the bust to waist fitting criteria of the contest by shaping my garment with bust darts, front and back fish-eye darts and a center back seam.  

  

Since the contest allows for an optional collar I added my favorite collar, the mandarin style.

My fabric of choice is a rich brown silk charmeuse that is woven only.  The slippery silk is tricky to work with so needless to say this blouse took some ridiculously long time to make.

Set in sleeves are required so I made a short sleeve with a tiny bit of extra ease to give it a puffer look.  The sleeves are raw edge.  I achieved this by simply stitching a stay stitch 3/8" from the edge and then fraying it slightly with my fingers.  I wanted the shirt to have some touches of uniqueness and because it’s silk I did not want it to look like pajamas.

The fabric used is silk charmeuse approximately 2 yards since I decide to do a front and neck facing instead of a placket.  

As far as other components go, I went with a mandarin collar.  Turn of cloth was considered when I made this collar to ensure all seemliness roll to the under collar.  All elements are under stitched.  As well, all pieces were stay- stiched before assembly to get that great hugging affect.  French seams were used for most of my finishing so the inside looks very tidy.  The sleeve seams were finished using yellow bias strips.  I ran out of the brown so I used a nice contrast. I broke out my hemming foot to do the hem.   I just love a chance to use my sewing feet.    

I also added a small button down breast pocket on the left side only.  I’m not a huge fan of topstitching so that’s why I decided on a faced front instead of a placket front.  I only topstitched the collar, the pocket details, the hem and the stay stitching for the raw edge sleeve.  

As required I included photos:  Front, back, inside, pocket, collar and raw edge sleeve.

Describe what you like most about this blouse:

I love how comfortable it is, and that I can wear it casually or dressy.  I love the color and I love that I can move in it.  And I love that it only cost me about $23.00 to make.  Silk shirts can be very pricey in RTW.

Describe your biggest challenge in creating this blouse:

My biggest challenge in sewing this blouse was working with silk.  Silk just has a mind of it’s own.  

What other information would you like to share about this blouse and your process?   This was a fun project that was a good challenge for me.  I learned somewhere online to prewash your silk if you want to be able to machine or hand wash it later.  So I did that.  

Ponte Knits and ITY Jersey

Ponte Knits or Double Knits

This ensemble is one that I have sewn many times for myself and my clients.  Both are my own designs.  I truly love knits.  I spend most of my life in workout clothes, so I've grown accustomed to being very comfortable.  So I look for comfort in my dressier clothes as well.  The ITY jersey top is like wearing PJ's and the double knit skirt has enough stretch that gaining or loosing a few pounds will not change the fit.  ITY comes in various weights.  This one is considered medium weight.  The skirt fabric is from Fabric.com and it's called bailey knit.  

Pencil Skirt with Exposed Zipper

Pencil Skirt with Exposed Zipper

Invisible Zippers with Lining…..Getting the Top Just Right

Invisible Zippers can be tricky.  Make a few small changes to get it perfect every time.

Perfectly Square at the top with just enough space to sew in the hook and eye.

Here's a view of the zipper sewn to the main fabric (Red) and the lining.  Sew the lining at the neckline before you install the zipper.  You can then under stitch your lining.  You could do it all the way past the zipper, but I like to stop before the zipper so I have room to play without worrying that the under stitching may cause me problems.  Take a close look at the picture above.  See how I turn that zipper top out and away toward the seam allowance and sew it in place. 

Here's where people make a critical error that may cause a bulky less than square finished top.  They just fold that lining over (right sides together, sandwiching the zipper and sew from the neckline edge and down the zipper.  

Here's the adjustment for a perfectly square finished zipper top.  Turn the seam allowance to the inside (toward the lining).

Pin in place.

Now sew the lining to the fashion fabric.

Even tops with the space needed to insert the hook and eye.

Workout Shorts with Crotch Gusset

Workout Shorts:  Perfect Workout shorts require a few things.  Let me list them: 

• Good quality fabric of at least 12oz of bamboo, cotton, nylon or the like and at least 12% spandex.  Below are made with Bamboo, Viscose and 14% Spandex. 
• A gusset crotch that is the perfect size.  You need to figure this out when you make your muslin, otherwise you'll experience some uncomfortable bunching or camel toe.
• Gusset with a double layer of fabric. 
• Perfect construction order to make sure that gusset lays flat
• Topstitching.  Mine are done with a coverstitch.  I use stretch thread for the "cover" portion only. 
• The right length to avoid thigh rubbing. 
• A waist that sits below the belly button or lower waisted, but does not fall down as you're working out.  1/4" elastic serged to the inside top of the waistband as added support for a stay in place fit.
  
  
  This short pattern is available on my ETSY Store:   Hourglass Patterns©: Active Pant with Yoga Waist and Optional Back Yoke
  
  
  
  
  

Leather Trim Exposed Brass Zipper Wool Jackets

This another self drafted pattern.  I thought it would be fun to work with some leather trim and zippers.  Plus, I had no jackets with a high collars so I incorporated this as well.  These jackets have princess seams and a back seams for easy fitting. 

As well the front seams allowed for perfect pocket placement.

 I think this will be a great transitional jacket for spring in New England (which we all know does not exist). 

The leather trim is fabric backed.  It's called perfection leather from fabric.com.  It's really easy to work with.  Just make sure to use your silicone presser foot and iron with a press cloth or the leather will strip.  There's a lot of traditional tailoring (hence hand stitching) in this jacket.  I'm not a big fan of topstitching so it's the price I have to pay. The jackets are interfaced throughout, with an extra layer at the cuff.

Wool Tweed Jacket with Leather Details

I started working with fabric backed leather this year.  It's great to sew and adds a very sophisticated element to your designs.  I love mandarin style colors, so I combined the mandarin with the notch front for a whole new look.  This jacket has mostly traditional tailoring, but a few RTW elements like a "bagged lining" and faux Sleeve Vents.  I have 4 faux leather buttons in the front as well as patch pockets.  You will also notice a slightly longer sleeve with less ease around the wrist.  This gives it a modern touch to match the leather collar.