Go to my tutorial section for the 2 page download |
Wednesday, December 7, 2016
How to Draft a Raglan Sleeve Top from a Regular Sleeve Top
I just added a 2 page download in the Tutorial Section of this blog on how to draft a Raglan Sleeve Top from a Regular Sleeve Top. If you have a great fitting knit top with a regular sleeve, then this tutorial will be very helpful in converting that pattern to a Raglan.
Saturday, November 12, 2016
Silk Charmeuse Button Down Blouse
I'm in the process of designing this pattern for Hourglass Patterns©. This is my 3rd sample to get all the pattern pieces to fit together.
Let me first say, I love silk and any silk like material (you will see other discussions in my blog archives about silk). However, it's truly a labor of love to work with. It tests your patience and skill every step of construction, including cutting. In the end, it's all worthwhile to have a truly unique garment made of silk that fits to perfection. This is my new holiday shirt, which I will try to wear as many times possible to make it all worth the effort. I now need to make a few more for my clients.
This is made from charmeuse silk. It features a jewel neckline, pleated cuffs, neckline facings, yoke back with pleat, bust darts, front fisheye darts, a front placket with 6 buttons and a double fold baby hem.
Some tricks for working with silk:
- before cutting, soak it in water and hang dry (I use Eucalan no rinse delicate wash) (don't skip this step, this allows you to clean spots later.....trust me!),
- sew seams, darts etc. with medical tissue underneath then peel away the tissue paper gently,
- lay the silk on the medical paper for cutting (it keeps the silk from shifting, then pin the pieces to the medical paper for moving around
- use silk pins,
- sew button holes with a wash away light weight stabilizer,
- use a microtex needle, or size 8-10
- use silk thread if you have it, or a good quality thread like guetermann
- stabilize all the openings before construction (staystitsh or strips of 1/4 wide light weight tricot cut on the bias.
- use professional grade interfacing for chiffons and other silks. More expensive, but worth it. Here's where I buy mine: Fashion Sewing Supply
Hope this helps for you next silk project.
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