Wednesday, December 7, 2016

How to Draft a Raglan Sleeve Top from a Regular Sleeve Top

I just added a 2 page download in the Tutorial Section of this blog on how to draft a Raglan Sleeve Top from a Regular Sleeve Top.  If you have a great fitting knit top with a regular sleeve, then this tutorial will be very helpful in converting that pattern to a Raglan.

Go to my tutorial section for the 2 page download

Saturday, November 12, 2016

Silk Charmeuse Button Down Blouse



I'm in the process of designing this pattern for Hourglass Patterns©. This is my 3rd sample to get all the pattern pieces to fit together.

Let me first say, I love silk and any silk like material (you will see other discussions in my blog archives about silk). However, it's truly a labor of love to work with. It tests your patience and skill every step of construction, including cutting. In the end, it's all worthwhile to have a truly unique garment made of silk that fits to perfection. This is my new holiday shirt, which I will try to wear as many times possible to make it all worth the effort. I now need to make a few more for my clients.

This is made from charmeuse silk. It features a jewel neckline, pleated cuffs, neckline facings, yoke back with pleat, bust darts, front fisheye darts, a front placket with 6 buttons and a double fold baby hem.

Some tricks for working with silk:


  • before cutting, soak it in water and hang dry (I use Eucalan no rinse delicate wash) (don't skip this step, this allows you to clean spots later.....trust me!),
  • sew seams, darts etc. with medical tissue underneath then peel away the tissue paper gently,
  • lay the silk on the medical paper for cutting (it keeps the silk from shifting, then pin the pieces to the medical paper for moving around
  • use silk pins,
  • sew button holes with a wash away light weight stabilizer,
  • use a microtex needle, or size 8-10
  • use silk thread if you have it, or a good quality thread like guetermann
  • stabilize all the openings before construction (staystitsh or strips of 1/4 wide light weight tricot cut on the bias.
  • use professional grade interfacing for chiffons and other silks. More expensive, but worth it. Here's where I buy mine: Fashion Sewing Supply

Hope this helps for you next silk project.

Detailed Body Measurements Download

Detailed Body Measurements

Detailed Body Measurements are key to a successful sewing project because they're integral to pattern alteration and ultimately to creat...