I'm in the process of designing this pattern for Hourglass Patterns©. This is my 3rd sample to get all the pattern pieces to fit together.
Let me first say, I love silk and any silk like material (you will see other discussions in my blog archives about silk). However, it's truly a labor of love to work with. It tests your patience and skill every step of construction, including cutting. In the end, it's all worthwhile to have a truly unique garment made of silk that fits to perfection. This is my new holiday shirt, which I will try to wear as many times possible to make it all worth the effort. I now need to make a few more for my clients.
This is made from charmeuse silk. It features a jewel neckline, pleated cuffs, neckline facings, yoke back with pleat, bust darts, front fisheye darts, a front placket with 6 buttons and a double fold baby hem.
Some tricks for working with silk:
- before cutting, soak it in water and hang dry (I use Eucalan no rinse delicate wash) (don't skip this step, this allows you to clean spots later.....trust me!),
- sew seams, darts etc. with medical tissue underneath then peel away the tissue paper gently,
- lay the silk on the medical paper for cutting (it keeps the silk from shifting, then pin the pieces to the medical paper for moving around
- use silk pins,
- sew button holes with a wash away light weight stabilizer,
- use a microtex needle, or size 8-10
- use silk thread if you have it, or a good quality thread like guetermann
- stabilize all the openings before construction (staystitsh or strips of 1/4 wide light weight tricot cut on the bias.
- use professional grade interfacing for chiffons and other silks. More expensive, but worth it. Here's where I buy mine: Fashion Sewing Supply
Hope this helps for you next silk project.
