Hourglass Patterns Learning: Add Ease from the Bust Up in Any Bodice

You can Add Ease to Any Bodice Center Front.  This alteration will show you how to add fullness in the Center Front from the bust Up.  

How To Make Hourglass Patterns DRAPE NECK Knit Top

The video tutorial on how to make Hourglass Patterns Drape Neck Knit Top is now available on my TikTok channel and my YouTube channel.

Here's the YouTube link:  How to Make Drape Neck Knit Top

Here's the TikTok Link:  Drape Neck Knit Top Tutorial

The newly graded pattern will be available September 5, 2024.

Hourglass Patterns: Staying Organized When Creating Patterns

How I Stay Organized When Creating Patterns:

Below is a sample spec sheet I create for patterns that I'm working on.  Here's a Linen Short I've been working on.  I may have 20+ patterns in my log that I want to create, but often I may not have the time to dedicate to my pattern shop, so this helps me come back to a project when I've stepped away for a long period of time.  And even if a particular pattern is something I never plan to add to my shop; it's a pattern I will make for myself over and over again.  

Laurie's Other DIY: Hair Conditioner

When I'm not sewing, I'm making DIY Hair and Skin Formulations.  Here's a link to my Hair Conditioner.  I have wavy frizzy hair with some spirals on the underlay.  I've over processed my hair over the past year and had to find a solution to bring back it's integrity.  This formula is rich in Macadamia Nut Oil, Wheat Protein, Silk Peptides, and D Panthenol B5.  I also add Centrimonium Chloride which is great for slip.  I find the conditioners on the market lack the slip I need.  Here's a link to the recipe, which is enough for a small travel bottle of 3.5 oz.  This is a good way for you to make a small batch and see if it works for you:  Laurie's DIY Salon Quality Hair Conditioner.  

One Page Download via the link above.

Hourglass Patterns Tutorials: Boxed Corners for Any Project

The boxed corner is just perfect for tote bags, purses, pouches, cosmetic cases, cushions; you name it, you can box it.  It's super easy.  Here's a quick pictorial for your next sewing craft project.  

Hourglass Patterns: Free Download-Lower Body Fitting Worksheet

Hourglass Patterns free worksheet to record your lower body measurements;  record directly on the images.  Includes recommended fitting ease to add or remove.

Here's a Link to this worksheet:  Hourglass Patterns Lower Body Measurements Worksheet

Hourglass Patterns©: Full Bust Adjustment Pictorial

 

Hourglass Patterns Learning: Binding on Sleeveless Garments

This symbol is on many of Hourglass Patterns' directions.  Below are 3 images that will help you perfect your binding application on sleeveless garments.  Many of my patterns have you apply the binding to the raw edge before you sew the side seam.  This is a much quicker method and is perfect for many applications.  I say many because there are times when this method will not work; and you will need to use the other method where you sew the shoulder and sides 1st, then apply a finished binding.  I show both binding methods in my drape neck top video on Youtube:  Making Hourglass Patterns Drape Neck Top

Pin, pin and pin to get it right.  I always baste 1st before using my serger.

Align the binding tops and seams, then match the notches. 

Sew from the hem to the binding and as you get to the binding increase your seam allowance; this makes it easier to tack down in the final step below.

Professional results with not fuss.

Hourglass Patterns©: Calculation Worksheet for Fit and Ease

Hourglass Patterns Calculation Worksheet for Fit and Ease. A Handy one page PDF worksheet used to adjust any sewing pattern, by any designer to fit your body in now available on ETSY.  Hourglass Patterns Fit and Ease Calc Worksheet on ETSY

If you're new to sewing you may not know that fitting and pattern alteration challenges often begin with not knowing how much ease is built into a pattern; and misunderstandings about the type of ease and where it's placed in the pattern.  This worksheet will help you determine that before you start your project. 

Accurate body measurement is essential for achieving good fit.  This combined with Hourglass Pattern's Bodymap is everything you need to begin sewing successfully.  Hourglass Patterns Bodymap on ETSY

Hourglass Patterns©: Pictorial-Lowering the underarm of a raglan style top

 Lowering the underarm of a Raglan Style Top:

So you purchased an Hourglass Patterns Raglan Style Knit top and you want to lower the underarm.  

Simple:  Make sure you do this equally on the FRONT underarm, BACK underarm and SLEEVE front and back underarms.  If you zoom in on the image, I have marked the change in red directly on the pattern.  Do this before cutting.  Personally, I make all my changes directly on patterns before cutting, unless I'm doing a "cut and spread" change.  This just keeps me organized so I know I've done everything equally.

In this example I lowered the underarm by 1.3".  Be careful about lowering an underarm too much as you can jeopardize fit.  Lowering the underarm too much will restrict the rotational arm movement and hinder the ability to reach the arms forward.   Since this is a knit I have a more leeway.  

After you cut out your new lowered underarm pattern, make sure you overlay the FRONT and BACK onto the SLEEVE (see pic below) and true up all arm seams before cutting out your fabric.

Actual pattern before cutting

Close up of the SLEEVE

Overlaying to "True" the Arm Seams of the pattern

Hourglass Patterns©: Taping printed pattern together.

It does not happen often, but occasionally a customer will say that a pattern is not aligning correctly.  Here are some common things to look for:

• Did you print the correct pattern for your printer?  Some patterns are formatted for USA paper and others for A4 paper.  If you do not print the correct format it will not line up.  All my pattern covers are color coded with the paper version.
• Did you Print at 100%?  It will never align without the correct print settings.  
  
  
  
• "There's a gap of missing print between the connection keys."  Yes....this is how it's designed so you don't have to overlap pages to put the pattern together.  My objective here was to give you a pattern that can be assembled quickly and can be stored easily.  
• The paper was not placed in the printer neatly.   This will cause some misalignment.
• Did you measure the connection box?  Did it measure 1"x1"?  If it did not, then the pattern will not go together as designed. New patterns have a 2"x2" box, this is denoted on the 1st page of all my patterns.
• It's also important to note that some of my patterns have sizes 4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18,20,22,24,26,28.  That's 13 sizes on one pattern!  It's best to trace out the pattern with a contrasting ink color so you can easily see the size.  With all those lines intersecting, it can get confusing.  This ensures you make not mistakes and you're cutting out the correct size.  Plus you will be filling in the non printable area simply by tracing out the pattern.  My new patterns are graded from XXS, XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL (7 sizes).

1st page of my patterns:  

This is how all my new patterns look on the 1st page.  Before you print all pages, which for some of my patterns can be as many as 30 pages, I suggest you print just page 1 and 2 and tape them together by abutting the edges.  Now follow the directions and measure the connection key, which is a 1" x 1" box.  This must measure 1" x 1".  Newer Patterns will have a 2" x 2" box. 

1"x1" box or 2"x 2" box.  Check the pattern.

2"x 2" box

Here's an actual pattern after taping it together.  The box measures 1" x 1" and I'm showing you how the pattern will have a "non printable gap".  

Hourglass Patterns©: Balaclava Pattern XS-XL

 I'm finally back from a long break.  Covid has affected my family deeply with the death of my beloved brother.  Grief had sapped me of all my energy.  But I realized quickly that I needed focus on my creative outlet to get me out of my slump.  So I started the new year doing alot of small projects to get me back to work.  I've regraded 3 of my patterns:  Turtle Tunic, V Neck Dolman, and Drape Neck Top.  These are now available in Sizes 4-28 (my new standard sizing)  And I finally completed my balaclava pattern, which is now available on ETSY:  Hourglass Patterns: Balaclava XS-XL.  I now have a Balaclava II:  Balaclava II XS-XL

Please stay safe, and if your family has been affected by covid, please know that you're not alone in your grief.  I share your pain everyday. 

Hourglass Patterns© Learning: Full Tummy Adjustment for a Skirt

Here's a pictorial of a Full Tummy Adjustment for a Skirt. You will need to adjust the pattern to add a little height to the Front. When you have a prominent tummy you need more fabric to cover the Front. You will need to make a sloper to ensure your adjustments are correct. Also pay attention to the side seams. They must divide the body to give good visual balance....so they should hang straight down perpendicular to the floor, dividing the body into two equal sections. Shop my patterns on ETSY:  http://ow.ly/nzFV30jfr8M
#hourglasspatterns #sewingpatterns #patterns #womenspatterns#sewing #fashionpatterns #fashion #springfashion #etsyshop #etsy#craftsy #indie #fashiondesigner #lauriegatnik #DIYFashion #sewing#lauriegatnik #beginnersewing #easysewing #imakemyownclothes#sewaholic #sewsuccessful #handmade #ilovetosew #diywardrobe. #craftaholic #ILoveCrafting

Hourglass Patterns©: Perfect Peplum

Finally got to wear my new perfect peplum top.  Great top if you want to hide a few extra pounds gained during the lockdown.

Hourglass Patterns©: Date Nite Dress

Hourglass Patterns©:  Date Nite Dress

New pattern on my ETSY Store:  https://rb.gy/vwkdna

I finally got to wear my new dress out for dinner last nite.  It felt good to actually get dressed up again.  This dress is made of Double Brushed Poly.  It features waist and back contouring, as well as bust darts.  So simply put you can get a very customized fit from this pattern.

Hourglass Patterns© Learning: Correct Shape for Sewing Any Project with Square Corners

No More Dog Ears....Here's an easy fix:

Do this with all your sewing projects that have square corners.  A small change like this will bring your craft sewing to the next level.  Remove those floppy ears on your pillows and coaster for much better looking products.

Crafting During Quarantine: Using up your fabric remnants

Like everyone else, time on my hands means "clean up" for the sewing room.  This was such a great craft project I decided to make it into a pattern.  It's so easy to make:  2 Pattern Pieces, approx. 6.5" (depending on the thickness of your hair) of 1/4 Elastic, a small amount of fabric and 10-15 minutes.  This is a great way to use up your 100% silk scraps.  I plan on digging into my remnants over the next few weeks and make quite a few for the summer. 

Crafting During Quarantine

I'm taking some time off during quarantine to do some craft sewing.  I just love this little storage pod.  Instead of making the pattern myself, I dowloaded this free pattern from nancy's notions.  The link to this pattern is no longer available.  I believe they removed it from the site.

I did very simply quilting with some vertical lines.  It will be my goal over the next few weeks to do 1 or 2 craft projects per day.  

Hourglass Patterns© is now on Youtube

Hourglass Patterns© Youtube Channel

Learn how to make Hourglass Patterns Face Mask.  This is for the newest version of the Face Mask. If you purchased the old version I have sent you a link to dropbox for the new version. Download the new version and follow along. This download also includes detailed Color Directions. Happy Sewing. Stay home and stay safe.  #hourglasspatterns #facemask #diyfacemask #mask#youtubehourglasspatternsfacemask #youtube #howtomakeamask

New Hourglass Patterns©: Face Mask Pattern

I will donate all profits to the World Health Organization.  Available on ETSY:  Hourglass Patterns© Face Mask Pattern