Hourglass Patterns©: Peplum or Circle Skirt Correction

So you think you just drafted the perfect Peplum or Circle Skirt, only to find out, when sewing, there's a few flaws.  Correct those flaws before you start sewing.  When you align the CF to the CB it looks great.  Wrong:  You need to abut the side seams to see the flaws.  Once you do that you can see how the tops have a peek and the bottoms have a valley.  See the pictorial below.  Just smooth out those peaks and valleys and your project will be successful.

Minimal Length for At the Knee Hem

Of course your preference rules, however this is a good starting point when drafting your skirt patterns.

Hourglass Patterns Learning: Removing excess fabric from below the buttocks.

I'm a very visual person so I thought I would share a pictorial of a common pant fitting problem:  Excess fabric below the buttocks.  It's just a few quick changes to the pattern back to fix this problem.  Pink is the original back, Blue is the changes made and Yellow is the new Back.

Hourglass Patterns© Learning: Grading on a pant pattern with no side seam

I have a few pant patterns with "No Side Seam".  Here's a quick pictorial to grade this style of pant 2 sizes up.

Hourglass Patterns© Learning: Pattern Modification so you can turn a hem on a Sleeveless Tee

Hourglass Patterns© Learning: Shoulder Slope

Adjusting a Neck that's too wide. Is your shirt falling off your shoulders?

So your neck is too wide on your sleeveless top/dress, and consequently the shoulders keep slipping off.  Here's a quick adjustment to get a good shoulder fit.   All fitting starts from the shoulder so getting this correct will allow you to draft with confidence.  This example is on a sleeveless top, however, this applies to garments with sleeves as well, except in that case you would also make some adjustments to the cap.  I'll save that for another tutorial.