Hourglass Patterns Learning: Binding on Sleeveless Garments

This symbol is on many of Hourglass Patterns' directions.  Below are 3 images that will help you perfect your binding application on sleeveless garments.  Many of my patterns have you apply the binding to the raw edge before you sew the side seam.  This is a much quicker method and is perfect for many applications.  I say many because there are times when this method will not work; and you will need to use the other method where you sew the shoulder and sides 1st, then apply a finished binding.  I show both binding methods in my drape neck top video on Youtube:  Making Hourglass Patterns Drape Neck Top

Pin, pin and pin to get it right.  I always baste 1st before using my serger.

Align the binding tops and seams, then match the notches. 

Sew from the hem to the binding and as you get to the binding increase your seam allowance; this makes it easier to tack down in the final step below.

Professional results with not fuss.

Hourglass Patterns©: Calculation Worksheet for Fit and Ease

Hourglass Patterns Calculation Worksheet for Fit and Ease. A Handy one page PDF worksheet used to adjust any sewing pattern, by any designer to fit your body in now available on ETSY.  Hourglass Patterns Fit and Ease Calc Worksheet on ETSY

If you're new to sewing you may not know that fitting and pattern alteration challenges often begin with not knowing how much ease is built into a pattern; and misunderstandings about the type of ease and where it's placed in the pattern.  This worksheet will help you determine that before you start your project. 

Accurate body measurement is essential for achieving good fit.  This combined with Hourglass Pattern's Bodymap is everything you need to begin sewing successfully.  Hourglass Patterns Bodymap on ETSY

Hourglass Patterns©: Pictorial-Lowering the underarm of a raglan style top

 Lowering the underarm of a Raglan Style Top:

So you purchased an Hourglass Patterns Raglan Style Knit top and you want to lower the underarm.  

Simple:  Make sure you do this equally on the FRONT underarm, BACK underarm and SLEEVE front and back underarms.  If you zoom in on the image, I have marked the change in red directly on the pattern.  Do this before cutting.  Personally, I make all my changes directly on patterns before cutting, unless I'm doing a "cut and spread" change.  This just keeps me organized so I know I've done everything equally.

In this example I lowered the underarm by 1.3".  Be careful about lowering an underarm too much as you can jeopardize fit.  Lowering the underarm too much will restrict the rotational arm movement and hinder the ability to reach the arms forward.   Since this is a knit I have a more leeway.  

After you cut out your new lowered underarm pattern, make sure you overlay the FRONT and BACK onto the SLEEVE (see pic below) and true up all arm seams before cutting out your fabric.

Actual pattern before cutting

Close up of the SLEEVE

Overlaying to "True" the Arm Seams of the pattern

Hourglass Patterns©: Taping printed pattern together.

It does not happen often, but occasionally a customer will say that a pattern is not aligning correctly.  Here are some common things to look for:

• Did you print the correct pattern for your printer?  Some patterns are formatted for USA paper and others for A4 paper.  If you do not print the correct format it will not line up.  All my pattern covers are color coded with the paper version.
• Did you Print at 100%?  It will never align without the correct print settings.  
  
  
  
• "There's a gap of missing print between the connection keys."  Yes....this is how it's designed so you don't have to overlap pages to put the pattern together.  My objective here was to give you a pattern that can be assembled quickly and can be stored easily.  
• The paper was not placed in the printer neatly.   This will cause some misalignment.
• Did you measure the connection box?  Did it measure 1"x1"?  If it did not, then the pattern will not go together as designed. New patterns have a 2"x2" box, this is denoted on the 1st page of all my patterns.
• It's also important to note that some of my patterns have sizes 4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18,20,22,24,26,28.  That's 13 sizes on one pattern!  It's best to trace out the pattern with a contrasting ink color so you can easily see the size.  With all those lines intersecting, it can get confusing.  This ensures you make not mistakes and you're cutting out the correct size.  Plus you will be filling in the non printable area simply by tracing out the pattern.  My new patterns are graded from XXS, XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL (7 sizes).

1st page of my patterns:  

This is how all my new patterns look on the 1st page.  Before you print all pages, which for some of my patterns can be as many as 30 pages, I suggest you print just page 1 and 2 and tape them together by abutting the edges.  Now follow the directions and measure the connection key, which is a 1" x 1" box.  This must measure 1" x 1".  Newer Patterns will have a 2" x 2" box. 

1"x1" box or 2"x 2" box.  Check the pattern.

2"x 2" box

Here's an actual pattern after taping it together.  The box measures 1" x 1" and I'm showing you how the pattern will have a "non printable gap".  

Hourglass Patterns©: Balaclava Pattern XS-XL

 I'm finally back from a long break.  Covid has affected my family deeply with the death of my beloved brother.  Grief had sapped me of all my energy.  But I realized quickly that I needed focus on my creative outlet to get me out of my slump.  So I started the new year doing alot of small projects to get me back to work.  I've regraded 3 of my patterns:  Turtle Tunic, V Neck Dolman, and Drape Neck Top.  These are now available in Sizes 4-28 (my new standard sizing)  And I finally completed my balaclava pattern, which is now available on ETSY:  Hourglass Patterns: Balaclava XS-XL.  I now have a Balaclava II:  Balaclava II XS-XL

Please stay safe, and if your family has been affected by covid, please know that you're not alone in your grief.  I share your pain everyday. 

Hourglass Patterns© Learning: Full Tummy Adjustment for a Skirt

Here's a pictorial of a Full Tummy Adjustment for a Skirt. You will need to adjust the pattern to add a little height to the Front. When you have a prominent tummy you need more fabric to cover the Front. You will need to make a sloper to ensure your adjustments are correct. Also pay attention to the side seams. They must divide the body to give good visual balance....so they should hang straight down perpendicular to the floor, dividing the body into two equal sections. Shop my patterns on ETSY:  http://ow.ly/nzFV30jfr8M
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Hourglass Patterns©: Perfect Peplum

Finally got to wear my new perfect peplum top.  Great top if you want to hide a few extra pounds gained during the lockdown.