Detailed Body Measurements

Detailed Body Measurements are key to a successful sewing project because they're integral to pattern alteration and ultimately to creating a muslim that fits.  I personally would never cut into my $25.00/yard fabric until I'm 100% satisfied with the fit of my muslim in a comparable fabric.  How many times have you stashed away your expensive fabric purchase in fear of cutting into it because you're not confident that you can alter a pattern correctly.   Put the fear behind you and get to work on your body map so the next project will be successful and rewarding.  Great fit can make up for small flaws in sewing.  No one will ever notice a topstitch that's not perfect, but they notice an ill fitting garment.

You can find this in my ETSY Shop:  HourglassPatterns Detailed Body Measurements on ETSY

How To Add Gather or Pleats to a Front Bodice

How to add a pleat or small gather to the center front bodice. 

Directions for Hourglass Patterns© Active Pant with Yoga Waist

If you purchased Hourglass Patterns©:  Active Pant with Yoga Waistband, this link will bring you to the pdf directions that you can download:

Active Pant with Yoga Waist Directions

How to Draft a Raglan Sleeve Top from a Regular Sleeve Top

I just added a 2 page download in the Tutorial Section of this blog on how to draft a Raglan Sleeve Top from a Regular Sleeve Top.  If you have a great fitting knit top with a regular sleeve, then this tutorial will be very helpful in converting that pattern to a Raglan.

Go to my tutorial section for the 2 page download

Silk Charmeuse Button Down Blouse

I'm in the process of designing this pattern for Hourglass Patterns©. This is my 3rd sample to get all the pattern pieces to fit together.

Let me first say, I love silk and any silk like material (you will see other discussions in my blog archives about silk). However, it's truly a labor of love to work with. It tests your patience and skill every step of construction, including cutting. In the end, it's all worthwhile to have a truly unique garment made of silk that fits to perfection. This is my new holiday shirt, which I will try to wear as many times possible to make it all worth the effort. I now need to make a few more for my clients.

This is made from charmeuse silk. It features a jewel neckline, pleated cuffs, neckline facings, yoke back with pleat, bust darts, front fisheye darts, a front placket with 6 buttons and a double fold baby hem.

Some tricks for working with silk:

• before cutting, soak it in water and hang dry (I use Eucalan no rinse delicate wash) (don't skip this step, this allows you to clean spots later.....trust me!),
• sew seams, darts etc. with medical tissue underneath then peel away the tissue paper gently,
• lay the silk on the medical paper for cutting (it keeps the silk from shifting, then pin the pieces to the medical paper for moving around
• use silk pins,
• sew button holes with a wash away light weight stabilizer,
• use a microtex needle, or size 8-10
• use silk thread if you have it, or a good quality thread like guetermann
• stabilize all the openings before construction (staystitsh or strips of 1/4 wide light weight tricot cut on the bias.
• use professional grade interfacing for chiffons and other silks. More expensive, but worth it. Here's where I buy mine: Fashion Sewing Supply

Hope this helps for you next silk project.

Silk Charmuese Short Sleeve Button Down Top

This was my entry in the sewing bee contest on Pattern Review.  I've never entered a contest so I though it would be a fun challenge.   Plus, it pushed me to make something I normally would just purchase.

This was my entry in the sewing bee contest on Pattern Review:

Pattern Review Contest

Sewing Bee Round 1 - Fitted Blouse

Pattern or style used and how it fits the criteria:

This is a self drafted fitted blouse.  This was a big stretch for me since I generally like to make jackets and dresses and when I venture to sew a top I prefer using knit fabrics or cotton wovens.  So I went to the drafting table and 2 muslins later I have a great fitting shirt, that’s very comfortable to wear. I achieved the bust to waist fitting criteria of the contest by shaping my garment with bust darts, front and back fish-eye darts and a center back seam.  

  

Since the contest allows for an optional collar I added my favorite collar, the mandarin style.

My fabric of choice is a rich brown silk charmeuse that is woven only.  The slippery silk is tricky to work with so needless to say this blouse took some ridiculously long time to make.

Set in sleeves are required so I made a short sleeve with a tiny bit of extra ease to give it a puffer look.  The sleeves are raw edge.  I achieved this by simply stitching a stay stitch 3/8" from the edge and then fraying it slightly with my fingers.  I wanted the shirt to have some touches of uniqueness and because it’s silk I did not want it to look like pajamas.

The fabric used is silk charmeuse approximately 2 yards since I decide to do a front and neck facing instead of a placket.  

As far as other components go, I went with a mandarin collar.  Turn of cloth was considered when I made this collar to ensure all seemliness roll to the under collar.  All elements are under stitched.  As well, all pieces were stay- stiched before assembly to get that great hugging affect.  French seams were used for most of my finishing so the inside looks very tidy.  The sleeve seams were finished using yellow bias strips.  I ran out of the brown so I used a nice contrast. I broke out my hemming foot to do the hem.   I just love a chance to use my sewing feet.    

I also added a small button down breast pocket on the left side only.  I’m not a huge fan of topstitching so that’s why I decided on a faced front instead of a placket front.  I only topstitched the collar, the pocket details, the hem and the stay stitching for the raw edge sleeve.  

As required I included photos:  Front, back, inside, pocket, collar and raw edge sleeve.

Describe what you like most about this blouse:

I love how comfortable it is, and that I can wear it casually or dressy.  I love the color and I love that I can move in it.  And I love that it only cost me about $23.00 to make.  Silk shirts can be very pricey in RTW.

Describe your biggest challenge in creating this blouse:

My biggest challenge in sewing this blouse was working with silk.  Silk just has a mind of it’s own.  

What other information would you like to share about this blouse and your process?   This was a fun project that was a good challenge for me.  I learned somewhere online to prewash your silk if you want to be able to machine or hand wash it later.  So I did that.  

Ponte Knits and ITY Jersey

Ponte Knits or Double Knits

This ensemble is one that I have sewn many times for myself and my clients.  Both are my own designs.  I truly love knits.  I spend most of my life in workout clothes, so I've grown accustomed to being very comfortable.  So I look for comfort in my dressier clothes as well.  The ITY jersey top is like wearing PJ's and the double knit skirt has enough stretch that gaining or loosing a few pounds will not change the fit.  ITY comes in various weights.  This one is considered medium weight.  The skirt fabric is from Fabric.com and it's called bailey knit.  

Pencil Skirt with Exposed Zipper

Pencil Skirt with Exposed Zipper