Flat Sleeve Construction Method for a Woven Shirt

I've just added a tutorial for the flat sleeve construction method for a woven shirt you can find it here:

Flat Sleeve Construction Method Tutorial

Continous Button Loop Closure

Easy button loops using the continuous loop method. This is the quickest, easiest way of adding button loops to your garment. The result is professional every time!  

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Detailed Body Measurements

Detailed Body Measurements are key to a successful sewing project because they're integral to pattern alteration and ultimately to creating a muslim that fits.  I personally would never cut into my $25.00/yard fabric until I'm 100% satisfied with the fit of my muslim in a comparable fabric.  How many times have you stashed away your expensive fabric purchase in fear of cutting into it because you're not confident that you can alter a pattern correctly.   Put the fear behind you and get to work on your body map so the next project will be successful and rewarding.  Great fit can make up for small flaws in sewing.  No one will ever notice a topstitch that's not perfect, but they notice an ill fitting garment.

You can find this in my ETSY Shop:  HourglassPatterns Detailed Body Measurements on ETSY

How To Add Gather or Pleats to a Front Bodice

How to add a pleat or small gather to the center front bodice. 

Directions for Hourglass Patterns© Active Pant with Yoga Waist

If you purchased Hourglass Patterns©:  Active Pant with Yoga Waistband, this link will bring you to the pdf directions that you can download:

Active Pant with Yoga Waist Directions

How to Draft a Raglan Sleeve Top from a Regular Sleeve Top

I just added a 2 page download in the Tutorial Section of this blog on how to draft a Raglan Sleeve Top from a Regular Sleeve Top.  If you have a great fitting knit top with a regular sleeve, then this tutorial will be very helpful in converting that pattern to a Raglan.

Go to my tutorial section for the 2 page download

Silk Charmeuse Button Down Blouse

I'm in the process of designing this pattern for Hourglass Patterns©. This is my 3rd sample to get all the pattern pieces to fit together.

Let me first say, I love silk and any silk like material (you will see other discussions in my blog archives about silk). However, it's truly a labor of love to work with. It tests your patience and skill every step of construction, including cutting. In the end, it's all worthwhile to have a truly unique garment made of silk that fits to perfection. This is my new holiday shirt, which I will try to wear as many times possible to make it all worth the effort. I now need to make a few more for my clients.

This is made from charmeuse silk. It features a jewel neckline, pleated cuffs, neckline facings, yoke back with pleat, bust darts, front fisheye darts, a front placket with 6 buttons and a double fold baby hem.

Some tricks for working with silk:

• before cutting, soak it in water and hang dry (I use Eucalan no rinse delicate wash) (don't skip this step, this allows you to clean spots later.....trust me!),
• sew seams, darts etc. with medical tissue underneath then peel away the tissue paper gently,
• lay the silk on the medical paper for cutting (it keeps the silk from shifting, then pin the pieces to the medical paper for moving around
• use silk pins,
• sew button holes with a wash away light weight stabilizer,
• use a microtex needle, or size 8-10
• use silk thread if you have it, or a good quality thread like guetermann
• stabilize all the openings before construction (staystitsh or strips of 1/4 wide light weight tricot cut on the bias.
• use professional grade interfacing for chiffons and other silks. More expensive, but worth it. Here's where I buy mine: Fashion Sewing Supply

Hope this helps for you next silk project.