Flat Sleeve Construction Method for a Woven Shirt Tutorial

Here's a quick visual for the flat sleeve construction method for a woven shirt:


Everything is marked before you start this process.  

Mark all the notches.
Mark the vents.
Mark the top of the sleeve cap.
Mark the beginning and ending of your ease lines for the sleeve cap.


Bind your sleeve vent 1st

To avoid mistakes, line up your sleeve to the armhole so the notches match and you're 100% sure your sleeves are going in correctly.  Vents are to the back as an indicator as well.

Run 2 ease stitch lines at around 3-4 mm long.  You want the stitch to hold without too much challenge.  The 2nd stitch line is key to better results.  Take the extra time to do this and you will be rewarded.

Pull up the 2 ease stitch lines  (look no pins to get a nice hold)

Evenly distribute the ease (again good hold with no pins)

RST, Match notches, centers and underarms and pin the sleeve into the armhole.  Then sew into the armhole.

Check your work.  If you have any mistakes, mark them with a pin.

Now correct those mistakes by pulling the stitches at and around the problem.  Distribute the ease again and restitch.

Match up underarm seams.  

Pin baste from sleeve hem to bodice hem and do a quick fitting.
RST, stitch permanently at 2.5mm and clean finish.

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