Tuxedo Style Jacket made with wool/poly blend

This was a fun jacket to make, but the inset collar is a bit challenging.  I drafted this pattern after seeing a ready to wear jacket with an inset collar.  The drafting was a bit tricky, however worth the effort since this pattern is quite versatile for making a more formal wear jacket.  This Jacket has mostly traditional tailoring:  Plenty of Extra Interfacing on the hems, sleeve heads, custom shoulder pads, mitered sleeve vents, welt pockets.

Notch Collar Wool Jacket

It's winter again when I start making wool jackets.  After taking the Craftsy class, Modern Jacket Techniques, I decided to make a second jacket with a few changes to the collar.  And instead of welt pockets, I decided to go with a cute small patch pocket with flap.  I'm happy with the end result.  I think this pattern is finally done.  This will be my master pattern for all future jackets.  Now I feel confident I can change minor components anytime I want a small change in design.  This jacket is made using mostly traditional tailoring technique, including a hand sewn lining.

Patch Pocket with button closures

Lots of princess seams for perfect fitting

Smooth Bulk free Join of collar to lapel

Bagged Lining

Patch Pockets with button closures

Light Pink Polka Dot Blazzer

It's that time a year to make lots of jackets.  I have 4 new jackets from last year, and I've now added a 5th.  But this one is by far my favorite.  I made this after taking the Craftsy Class, Modern Jacket Techniques.  It features real welt pockets with flaps, a notch collar and princess seams throughout for better fitting.   While the class uses the Simplicity Pattern 2446, this jacket was a self drafted pattern.  I loved the class, but I was not thrilled with the method used to make the collar and lapel.  I'll stick to Threads Magazine's method in the future.  And I should mention the most important thing:  3 Days to make.

More Woodworking Projects

I've taken a bit of time away from sewing to do some more woodworking. Here's a few more projects I've completed. Custom built shoe racks for the inside of my closet, floating shelves for my bathroom and some planters I made from scrap wood. I also distressed some furniture pieces to tie into my new built ins.

Satin Cami's and bias cut sleeveless tops

$5.95/yard Tahari Satin with a small amount of stretch.  I'm going to make this in silk.  Head stopping color.  I wore this with a bias cut pink floral skirt and felt like it was the perfect summer outfit.

A slight racerback style.  I love wearing these tops.  I've seen them everywhere this year and most cost upward of $35.00.  For one yard of fabric, you have a gorgeous shirt for $5.95.  I'm making a few to give to my girlfriends for gifts.

This one is cut on the bias.  It drapes so nicely.  Very clingy to the body, plus you get added form flattering effect from the small gathers at the front.

The next back I do will be a racerback.

Here's me wearing a self drafted pencil skirt and poly charmeuse top.  I have a client who loves fabric with drape so I've been practicing my skills on poly chiffon and charmeuse so I have more confidence working with silk.  The skirt is just a stretch twill.  The pockets were a cute practical last minute addition.  

Oh the beauty of Silk!!!  Silk Brocade pencil skirt and a silk top.

Good topstitching.  I stitch over tissue paper (medical table paper that I purchase by the case).  It's cheap and can be torn away from the fabric without disturbing the stitch.

The baby hem.  The perfect hem for a silk.  I do this by machine using a method that I found on pinterest.  I tried using my 1/4 rolled hem foot, but it's just too risky when you pay over $15/yard for silk.  The final result is sheer joy!!!

Poly or silk chiffon for a a wonderful draped top. Suit weight wool for the pencil skirt.

1/4" binding for the neckline and armholes.  This is achieved using a 1/4 binder attachment for my juki TL98 straight stitch machine.  

French Seams:  The hallmark of good sewing.  A must when sewing sheer and semi sheer fabrics. 

Here's my 1/4" binder attachment for my juki.  Use this with a compensating foot as I have in the above picture and you will get the most perfect binding.  But go very slow and use the awl to make sure you stay on the binding.  And make sure you cut your bias binding exact to ensure quality work.  When I work with chiffon I cut 1 1/4" to make 1/4" binding. 

ITY Fabric. A must for any level of sewer

Bound Neckline and smooth sleeve caps

Wrap Tucks at side waist and pockets

The finished dress.

Jeans and the contoured waistband

Let me start by saying that I'm fascinated with jeans.  I once had over 100 pair in my closet.  I now own 6 pair.  My husband has taught me about purging.  That being said.  I'm now fascinated w/ one or 2 really good fitting jeans.  I've worked on my jeans pattern for about a year now.  And as of last night finished a pair of jean shorts that have a few things to be perfected, but overall the fit is really good.  I  need to tweak the contoured waistband just slightly at this point.


The contoured waistband makes all the difference in fit.  I cut the waistband last.

Here's a some progression pictures of the stretch jean shorts:

 Precise topstitching……a must!!!! Take your time.  I have various size topstitching feet for my juki TL98E.

 I lined my pockets with a beautiful fabric I bought in singapore.

 Here's a great thing to note:  Iron up your hems before sewing the side seams.  It just makes the whole hemming process go faster.  It's easier to iron when everything is flat.  This ensures the both legs match.

 The fly front is the most important step.  If this does not look perfect you will have a homemade look instead of a RTW look.  I use Sandra Betzina's method without failure every time.

 Buy nice rivets of high quality to give it the finishing touch.  I also embroidered a small snowflake on the change pocket.  Topstitching must be precise as well.