The Collar and Stay.....Perfection is Required

The collar and stay are the focal points of a well made tailored shirt, needless to say perfect sewing is required.

Key notes: 

•  Cut your collar last. Why: Because if you have a center back seam in your pattern design and you change that for fitting purposes your collar will no longer fit into the neckline. Same holds true if you adjust your shoulder seams. 
•  Test your collar with a muslim and fit it to your shirt neckline after you make any adjustments to back and shoulders seams.  

Here's my test collar for the black shirt above:
I keep my bodice muslim on hand to fit new collar designs.  I do an entire muslim collar to ensure a perfect fit so I have no surprises when I cut into my fashion fabric.

Back View:  I know the collar is big enough when it meets the back,

rolls nicely to cover the seam and has no rippling whatsoever.

Front View:  I know the stay meets at the center front and the collar is coming
out of the stay exactly where I want it for the design.

Inside view:  Neat and tidy.

Pin Fit your collar into the neckline.  At this juncture you know if it's going to fit.

If it fits, use your favorite method for sewing it in.  I like to mark on the stay
where I can feel the center front seam, then I sew on that line to ensure
it meets up exactly.  No mistakes can be made at this stage.

Make sure you turn up the upper collar seam allowances back before sewing.

Again, this is only one method for sewing in the collar.  I have 2

methods that I use.  This one works well for me consistently and it's 

quick for doing muslins.

Good luck on your next collar!!!