The guts of a Jacket

Here's my latest project.  Another cut on shawl collar jacket with a pleated peplum and an inside patch pockets.  For the pockets I decided to incorporate some of my fabric I bought in Singapore to add some nostalgia to the garment.  This is the jacket where I have perfected the sleeve cap.  This post will be a progression post.  I'll continue to add pictures as I complete milestones.  My white wale is to perfect the lining on a sleeve vent.  I'm researching now on how the manufactures do it.  I know how to do it before the sleeve is inserted, but I don't know how they do it using the bagging technique.  I'm sure I'll figure it out, but I'll not rest until I master it!!

Look at all that interfacing placed in all the key spots.

The shaw collar roll line.  Again a must for a professional results.

Pockets in place

Pocket flaps in place and topstitched.

The vent

Side view

The arm before tailoring

The sleeve faux vent.

The 2 piece sleeve.  I never do anything other than a 2 piece.  If you have a one piece sleeve pattern convert it to a 2 piece for a far superior fit.

Hem flat before you assemble.  This is a must!!!  

Easing the sleeve

Shaping the eased sleeve cap

Shaping the sleeve cap on the ham 

Pinning in the sleeve.

Sewing in the sleeve

The sleeve layout out so you can press the hem up first.

Getting the perfect underarm seam match

Dress form outfitted with the right size of shoulder pad so you can fit the jacket before you insert the actual shoulder pad.

Underarm seams matched up

Shaping the sleeve cap with sleeve heads.  Strips of cotton batting.

The batting once it's in the sleeve cap

Belt carrier maker

Making the belt loops

My new "ladies fancy jacket".  This was inspired by the 50's era jacket, but I added a few details that are modern.  I had major problems with the sleeve cap on one side, but have since resolved the problem and my newest project has the most perfect sleeve cap I have ever made.  I fully interlined this jacket because  the wool/poly weave was a bit flimsy, however, I only paid about $3.00/yard.  So at 4 yards, the jacket cost me only $12.00 to make.  I fully expected to throw this sample away.  I took on the project just to perfect the peplum bottom and the bagging technique for the lining.  I nailed the bagging technique, so the hours of difficulty it caused me was well worth it.  See the bagged pic below.  Plus, it allowed me to adjust my pattern to perfection.

 Bagging a lining Front (above), Back (below)

Sewing a Notched Collar

Firstly, I always find the newest methods used in the fashion industry before I take on a project.  The last time I made a notched collar using these methods was about 5 years ago, so I really needed a refresher.  So I turned to threads magazine for a tutorial:

http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/24957/how-to-sew-a-notched-jacket-lapel

Here's my practice piece.  I always practice the technique before I attempt the project.  It's like measuring twice.  Good thing I did, because although I nailed the technique of a smooth, bulk free join from the collar to the lapel.  I failed in 2 major ways.  My under collar was too large so the seam line did not roll under (See pic #2) and I under stitched the front piece by mistake.

 Pic #1 Bulk free perfect join.

Pic #2 Undercollar is too large and the seam line is not rolling under.

 Pic #3 I got confused and under stitched the front side of the lapel instead of the back side.  I will not forget that mistake again.  But the corner was perfect and completely bulk free.

 Pic #4.  I'm not 100% sure but I think the collar may be a bit too short.  I'll work this out before I start my project.  It looks like I need to cut into into and spread it just a bit.

 Pic #5 Notch every match point on the collar so assembly to the jacket is perfect.

 Pic #4 Interface the collar but only up to the Seam Allowance.  This is very important for bulk free corners.

Pic #5 My inspiration.  The final jacket will have a peplum like this one when I'm finished.

Sewing a Winter Jacket

 The completed winter coat.  Detail:  Fully interlined (for warmth the fabric was very loosely woven wool/poly blend) and lined using various methods.

 Separate waistline panel for  a tailored look.

 Smooth sleeve caps with cotton batting sleeve heads and shoulder pads ( a must for a professional look).

 Separate waist panel in the back that is higher at the top to add some detail.

 A matching polyester lining.

 A cut on shawl collar.  Which, in retrospect, was a good idea since this coat is extremely bulky due to the interlining and interfacing.

Faux vents because I had a bit of a problem with my 2 piece sleeve.  However, you would never know by just looking.