Invisible Zippers with Lining…..Getting the Top Just Right

Invisible Zippers can be tricky.  Make a few small changes to get it perfect every time.

Perfectly Square at the top with just enough space to sew in the hook and eye.

Here's a view of the zipper sewn to the main fabric (Red) and the lining.  Sew the lining at the neckline before you install the zipper.  You can then under stitch your lining.  You could do it all the way past the zipper, but I like to stop before the zipper so I have room to play without worrying that the under stitching may cause me problems.  Take a close look at the picture above.  See how I turn that zipper top out and away toward the seam allowance and sew it in place. 

Here's where people make a critical error that may cause a bulky less than square finished top.  They just fold that lining over (right sides together, sandwiching the zipper and sew from the neckline edge and down the zipper.  

Here's the adjustment for a perfectly square finished zipper top.  Turn the seam allowance to the inside (toward the lining).

Pin in place.

Now sew the lining to the fashion fabric.

Even tops with the space needed to insert the hook and eye.

Workout Shorts with Crotch Gusset

Workout Shorts:  Perfect Workout shorts require a few things.  Let me list them: 

• Good quality fabric of at least 12oz of bamboo, cotton, nylon or the like and at least 12% spandex.  Below are made with Bamboo, Viscose and 14% Spandex. 
• A gusset crotch that is the perfect size.  You need to figure this out when you make your muslin, otherwise you'll experience some uncomfortable bunching or camel toe.
• Gusset with a double layer of fabric. 
• Perfect construction order to make sure that gusset lays flat
• Topstitching.  Mine are done with a coverstitch.  I use stretch thread for the "cover" portion only. 
• The right length to avoid thigh rubbing. 
• A waist that sits below the belly button or lower waisted, but does not fall down as you're working out.  1/4" elastic serged to the inside top of the waistband as added support for a stay in place fit.
  
  
  This short pattern is available on my ETSY Store:   Hourglass Patterns©: Active Pant with Yoga Waist and Optional Back Yoke
  
  
  
  
  

Leather Trim Exposed Brass Zipper Wool Jackets

This another self drafted pattern.  I thought it would be fun to work with some leather trim and zippers.  Plus, I had no jackets with a high collars so I incorporated this as well.  These jackets have princess seams and a back seams for easy fitting. 

As well the front seams allowed for perfect pocket placement.

 I think this will be a great transitional jacket for spring in New England (which we all know does not exist). 

The leather trim is fabric backed.  It's called perfection leather from fabric.com.  It's really easy to work with.  Just make sure to use your silicone presser foot and iron with a press cloth or the leather will strip.  There's a lot of traditional tailoring (hence hand stitching) in this jacket.  I'm not a big fan of topstitching so it's the price I have to pay. The jackets are interfaced throughout, with an extra layer at the cuff.

Wool Tweed Jacket with Leather Details

I started working with fabric backed leather this year.  It's great to sew and adds a very sophisticated element to your designs.  I love mandarin style colors, so I combined the mandarin with the notch front for a whole new look.  This jacket has mostly traditional tailoring, but a few RTW elements like a "bagged lining" and faux Sleeve Vents.  I have 4 faux leather buttons in the front as well as patch pockets.  You will also notice a slightly longer sleeve with less ease around the wrist.  This gives it a modern touch to match the leather collar.

Tuxedo Style Jacket made with wool/poly blend

This was a fun jacket to make, but the inset collar is a bit challenging.  I drafted this pattern after seeing a ready to wear jacket with an inset collar.  The drafting was a bit tricky, however worth the effort since this pattern is quite versatile for making a more formal wear jacket.  This Jacket has mostly traditional tailoring:  Plenty of Extra Interfacing on the hems, sleeve heads, custom shoulder pads, mitered sleeve vents, welt pockets.

Oh the beauty of Silk!!!  Silk Brocade pencil skirt and a silk top.

Good topstitching.  I stitch over tissue paper (medical table paper that I purchase by the case).  It's cheap and can be torn away from the fabric without disturbing the stitch.

The baby hem.  The perfect hem for a silk.  I do this by machine using a method that I found on pinterest.  I tried using my 1/4 rolled hem foot, but it's just too risky when you pay over $15/yard for silk.  The final result is sheer joy!!!

Poly or silk chiffon for a a wonderful draped top. Suit weight wool for the pencil skirt.

1/4" binding for the neckline and armholes.  This is achieved using a 1/4 binder attachment for my juki TL98 straight stitch machine.  

French Seams:  The hallmark of good sewing.  A must when sewing sheer and semi sheer fabrics. 

Here's my 1/4" binder attachment for my juki.  Use this with a compensating foot as I have in the above picture and you will get the most perfect binding.  But go very slow and use the awl to make sure you stay on the binding.  And make sure you cut your bias binding exact to ensure quality work.  When I work with chiffon I cut 1 1/4" to make 1/4" binding. 

Jeans and the contoured waistband

Let me start by saying that I'm fascinated with jeans.  I once had over 100 pair in my closet.  I now own 6 pair.  My husband has taught me about purging.  That being said.  I'm now fascinated w/ one or 2 really good fitting jeans.  I've worked on my jeans pattern for about a year now.  And as of last night finished a pair of jean shorts that have a few things to be perfected, but overall the fit is really good.  I  need to tweak the contoured waistband just slightly at this point.


The contoured waistband makes all the difference in fit.  I cut the waistband last.

Here's a some progression pictures of the stretch jean shorts:

 Precise topstitching……a must!!!! Take your time.  I have various size topstitching feet for my juki TL98E.

 I lined my pockets with a beautiful fabric I bought in singapore.

 Here's a great thing to note:  Iron up your hems before sewing the side seams.  It just makes the whole hemming process go faster.  It's easier to iron when everything is flat.  This ensures the both legs match.

 The fly front is the most important step.  If this does not look perfect you will have a homemade look instead of a RTW look.  I use Sandra Betzina's method without failure every time.

 Buy nice rivets of high quality to give it the finishing touch.  I also embroidered a small snowflake on the change pocket.  Topstitching must be precise as well.